Yesterday at the Enoteca, someone asked me with a smile: “Roero? That’s the area for Arneis, right?”
I answered with another smile, because yes… but not only. Roero, sitting just across the Tanaro river from Barolo, has a unique claim in Piemonte: it’s a DOCG for both white and red wines. This is something even many locals forget. Two distinct expressions share the same hills, like siblings in the same family.
On one side, Roero Arneis DOCG—based on at least 95% Arneis, the native white grape. On the other, Roero Rosso DOCG—driven by at least 95% Nebbiolo, the same noble grape behind Barolo and Barbaresco.
Roero Arneis speaks of freshness and light, a wine of bright fruit and floral aromas. Roero Rosso, in contrast, is all structure and grip, yet with a leaner, more agile personality than its Langhe cousins. Both are unmistakably related, not through their grape variety, but through their soils.
Those soils are the secret key. Roero’s hills are dominated by sand, layered with marine fossils and ancient deposits left behind when this area was once under the sea. In Roero Rosso, these sandy terrains pull Nebbiolo toward finesse: less tannic heft, more mineral sharpness, a profile that ages beautifully but with a lighter touch compared to the Barolo side of the river. In Roero Arneis, the same sands act differently: they highlight white flowers, citrus zest, and almond hints when young, then slowly unveil a firm, stony minerality that allows Arneis to surprise drinkers with its ability to mature for a decade or more.
This duality fascinates me. Few DOCGs manage to balance such contrasting expressions under a single name. And what makes it more compelling is the history of Arneis itself. Known as the “uva birichina”—the little rascal—it was almost abandoned in the 1960s. Growers found it finicky to farm and vinify, prone to low yields and instability. Some producers even planted it alongside Nebbiolo, not for its own sake, but to soften Nebbiolo’s sharp tannins. By the mid-20th century, Arneis had nearly vanished.
But then came revival. Local winemakers, recognizing that Roero needed its own distinctive identity, worked to rescue Arneis. By the 1980s, it became the emblem of the region, celebrated for its freshness and versatility. Today, Roero Arneis is not only the white face of the territory—it’s also increasingly explored in Riserva bottlings, which show its capacity to evolve beyond youthful charm into something layered and profound.
The paradox, however, lies on the red side. While Arneis is climbing upward into more ambitious territory, what might actually benefit Roero Rosso is the opposite move: more producers making fresher, everyday styles of Nebbiolo. Roero’s sandy soils are naturally suited to producing elegant, approachable reds that can be enjoyed young, without sacrificing identity. Yet too often, comparisons with Barolo push producers toward heavier, more extracted styles. The truth is, Roero Rosso shines brightest when it embraces its own nature: agile, fragrant, mineral, with a grip that is firm but not overbearing.
That is why I always remind friends and customers: when you see Roero on a label, don’t assume it’s white. Behind the Arneis that built its reputation, there is also the red face of Roero, equally tied to the land, equally worth discovering.
Roero Arneis: from Near Extinction to Icon
The story of Roero Arneis is one of Piemonte’s great wine rescues. Today it stands as a DOCG white with international recognition, yet just sixty years ago it was on the brink of disappearing.
Arneis has deep roots in Roero. The first recorded mentions of the grape date back to the 15th century in local archives. For centuries, it was cultivated in small plots, often co-planted with Nebbiolo. But Arneis was never an easy partner. Its name itself—Arneis in Piemontese dialect—translates loosely as “rascal” or “difficult child.” The grape tends toward low acidity, which made early harvests bland, and when overripe it lost freshness quickly. It also suffered from irregular yields, frustrating growers who preferred Nebbiolo’s reliability.
By the mid-20th century, Arneis was largely abandoned. Many vineyards were ripped out, and only a handful of hectares survived in mixed plantings. What saved it was not only tradition but also a new sense of regional identity. In the 1970s, a small group of winemakers—among them Bruno Giacosa—recognized that Roero needed a flagship white to distinguish itself from the neighboring Langhe. They took Arneis seriously, refining vineyard practices and winemaking techniques. Cold fermentation, careful handling to preserve aromatics, and better vineyard siting allowed the grape’s natural perfume and freshness to shine.
By the 1980s, Roero Arneis was reborn. Plantings expanded rapidly, and it became the defining white of the region. In 1989, Roero Arneis received DOC status, and in 2005, together with Roero Rosso, it was elevated to DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), the highest quality tier in Italian wine law.
What makes Arneis unique in the glass? When young, Roero Arneis is a wine of brightness: white peach, pear, green apple, almond, and spring flowers, all carried on crisp acidity and a mineral backbone. The sandy soils of Roero amplify its fragrance and freshness, keeping the wine lively. Yet what surprises many drinkers is its ability to age. With time, Arneis develops depth: notes of honey, chamomile, hazelnut, and a firm stony minerality that can last for a decade or more in top examples. This dual character—delicate yet age-worthy—is rare among Italian whites.
Today, Arneis is planted in over 1,000 hectares across Roero and surrounding areas. It has become not only the white face of Roero but also a model of how local heritage grapes, once considered too difficult, can thrive when given care and vision. From near extinction, the little rascal has grown into an icon.
Not Only Roero Arneis: The Nebbiolo through Sand
If Roero Arneis is the white face of the region, then Roero Rosso is its red soul. Made with at least 95% Nebbiolo, it shares the same noble grape as Barolo and Barbaresco, yet it expresses it in a distinctly different way. The reason is simple: soil.
Across the Tanaro river, Barolo’s vineyards are rooted in heavier clay and marl, which give Nebbiolo structure, density, and long-lived tannins. In Roero, the hills are lighter, dominated by sand with veins of marine fossils and friable limestone. This geological contrast reshapes Nebbiolo’s character. Instead of the muscular frame of Barolo, Roero Rosso turns leaner and more agile. Its tannins are finer-grained, its aromas more lifted—often marked by rose petals, violets, sour cherry, and a saline minerality that lingers on the palate.
This doesn’t mean Roero Rosso is less serious. On the contrary, its elegance makes it one of Piemonte’s most versatile expressions of Nebbiolo. The DOCG rules require a minimum aging of 20 months, of which at least six must be in oak. For the Roero Rosso Riserva, the minimum extends to 32 months, with at least six in oak. These regulations ensure structure and refinement, but within that framework producers have freedom to interpret style.
Some highlight freshness, bottling earlier to showcase bright fruit and floral lift. Others lean into a more structured approach, with longer macerations and aging in large casks or barriques. What unites them all is the sandy imprint: a minerality and finesse that distinguishes Roero Rosso from its Langhe counterparts. It is Nebbiolo, but with a lighter step.
This distinction is both a strength and a challenge. Roero Rosso has sometimes been overshadowed by the fame of Barolo and Barbaresco, which command higher prices and greater global recognition. Yet in recent years, sommeliers and wine lovers have begun to rediscover Roero Rosso as a more approachable expression of Nebbiolo, often offering better value while still capable of graceful aging. Top examples can age beautifully for 10–15 years, developing notes of dried roses, tobacco, truffle, and spice.
What fascinates me most is the paradox: while Arneis has climbed into the realm of Riserva and age-worthy whites, what could truly help Roero Rosso thrive is the opposite—more producers leaning into everyday, drinkable styles that highlight the grape’s perfume and liveliness. The territory has a natural gift for this. And if more producers embrace that balance, Roero Rosso could stand not as Barolo’s neighbor, but as its own confident voice of Nebbiolo.
FAQ Frequent questions on Roero Arneis e Roero Rosso
1. What is Roero Arneis?
Roero Arneis is a white wine from Piemonte, produced under the Roero DOCG. It must contain at least 95% Arneis grapes. Known for its floral aromas, freshness, and mineral backbone, it is the signature white of the Roero region.
2. How does Roero Arneis taste?
Young Roero Arneis is fresh and fragrant, with notes of pear, peach, almond, and white flowers. With age, it develops honey, chamomile, and nutty complexity while maintaining minerality.
3. What is the difference between Roero Arneis and Roero Rosso?
Roero Arneis is a white DOCG wine made mainly from Arneis grapes. Roero Rosso is a red DOCG wine made from at least 95% Nebbiolo. Both share sandy soils, which give freshness and elegance, but their expressions differ: one bright and floral, the other structured yet agile.
4. Can Roero Arneis age well?
Yes. While many bottles are enjoyed young, top Roero Arneis wines can age for 8–10 years, developing richer flavors and a firm mineral core.
5. Why was Arneis called the “little rascal”?
Arneis was nicknamed “uva birichina” (little rascal) because it was difficult to cultivate and vinify. Its irregular yields and delicate acidity led to its near extinction in the 1960s before being revived by dedicated producers.
